Flag Series Vietnam 2018
Bottle image courtesy of La Maison & Velier / Velier promotional materials.
Le Maison & Velier’s Flag Series has made its mission clear: catalog unique and high proof single-cask bottlings from distillieries all around the world. Here, their pursuit has brought them to Vietnam. The most likely origin of this rhum agricole style spirit is perhaps Sampan Rum, via Distillerie d’Indochine. Distilled using an 11-plate French copper armagnac column still and aged for 6 years in the hot, tropical climate of Quang Nam province in Vietnam using a single ex-cognac cask, with the final outturn being 213 bottles at 55.5% ABV, this rum is well made in every sense of its production details. There are no corners cut here, and this becomes even more apparent once we dive deep into our analysis.
Initially, this rum gives me the impression of a hot and waxy grape juice, but not wine-like oddly enough, mixed with brown sugar. However, over time, the aromas develop strongly into fresh baked goods, confectionery, pancakes with sweet syrup, French pastries, and overall breakfast desserts. It is honestly quite sweet smelling, in a good way, which is pleasantly delivered. Images of an early-morning breakfast in a café with grape juice and warm coffee on the side are carefully invoked.
Throughout the drinking period, the sweetness grew even stronger. Alongside the pastry notes from before, I got notes of white chocolate, French vanilla pudding, as well as a faint freshly pressed cane juice note. Some fruits, such as green grapes, also began to blossom. I can see that there is a Cognac influence for sure here, and it is most welcome.
Towards the end of my drinking, I began to feel a lot of toasted spices, think the vague impression of cinnamon, coriander, cumin, and cardamom cooking in a hot skillet. This presented a lovely warmth that intrigued me to a large degree, as this is a spirit with no additives or anything of that nature. This is a true and traditional rum in every sense of the way. Thus, I am alluded to the high quality nature of the distillate more than anything else.
The arrival is lively yet remarkably complex. For a spirit of its proof, it is not difficult to imbibe one bit. The palate does follow the nose but it grows more grape juice forward. Like a sweet pastry or buttered breakfast toast dunked into a hot grape juice. On the backend, I do begin to feel a stronger cane juice character that lingers with larger sips. I also get notes of bitter dark chocolate and raw parsnips. In a way, I get a lot of grape juice, but not necessarily an accompanying wine or cognac-esque note per se, although I do believe this flavor profile is a derivative interaction from the cane juice distillate and the cognac casks.
As one drinks this spirit more, the cane juice genesis of the beverage becomes more apparent. Lots of lingering harshness and bitterness, not necessarily in a bad sense, and there is a lot of strong raw vegetable and grape skin note. There is also a feeling present that is similar to chewing on raw sugarcane, which in South Asia is a nostalgic delicacy. One is also presented with a subtle vegetal mustiness, accompanied with some vague brown sugar character. The finish is not the best and I do find myself asking for more out of thereof.
This rum is elegant yet approachable. It is not trying to be anything too special, yet it achieves something quite ambitious at the same time. Vietnam is a nation that I feel has a lot of potential for some high quality, cutting-edge rum. However, the issue with many Asian rums is the lack of accessibility as well as many producers cutting corners. I believe this bottle represents a foundation for the future to come in the world of Asian rum. The only issue I have is that I wish it spoke more “Vietnam” to me, as I do think the 6 year aging perhaps diluted its Vietnamese origins by some degree. I do not think this rum should be mixed in any meaningful way. It is best served neat, which is a testament to how archetypal of a sublime rum this is.
Final Rating: 85/100